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Garage Door Bracket Repair

Posted by diynovice on August 6, 2008

My Garage Door Bracket, which connects the Garage door arm to the Garage door ripped out of the garage door. 

I got a quote from a Garage Door repair company, and they said I would have to replace the whole door.  I didn’t have more time to wait for a second opinion, so I decided to fix the problem myself. 

Time: 4 hours
Cost: $15
(add another $20 if you do not have Titanium Drill bits or a Hack saw)
Difficulty: 3 out of 5

1. The maximum width plate that could fit behind the damaged area was measured, which was just shy of 2 inches.  There is a lip that would prevent any overhang of the plate.  A 2” wide, 1/8” thick, steel plate was used because Home Depot and Lowes did not have any Aluminum plate.  The plate was gently “convinced” to fit behind the damaged area.

2. The length of the steel plate required to reinforce the damaged area was 14 inches.  The plate ran from the cross support above the damage to the hinge below the damage. (Note: If you just choose to cover just the damaged area, there will be very high stresses at the ends of the plate that will probably cause the new repair to fail.  If you try this repair, your length may vary).

3. To attach the plate, I used bolts similar in size as the metal screws currently being used on the door, which are ¼” screws.  Below is a short list of some factors I thought of when locating holes:  

 – Existing screw hole locations at the top and bottom of the plate were utilized to ensure proper installation (this is to ensure that the stress is transferred from the Bracket to the plate/flange and then to the structure).
 – Enlarged or added holes are separated by a center-to-center distance of 2 times the hole diameter.  Holes added near the edge of the plate will keep a distance from the edge to the center of the hole of twice the diameter of the hole.
 – The plate needs to be well supported around the damaged area.
 – Two or more bolts should be installed “off-the-center-line” of the plate or near the edge of the plate to prevent the plate from rocking along the center line.

The picture below shows where I put my ¼” bolts.  The holes circled in red were unused existing holes that I enlarged.  The yellow ones are existing screw locations.  The blue ones are holes that I added.

4. Once the general hole pattern was decided, the plate is placed behind the damaged area.  Using a magic marker, chosen fastener holes were completely filled in.  The plate was removed, and the holes were drilled.  To drill through the steel, Titanium drill bits were used.  A 1/8” pilot hole was first drilled at approximately the center of the magic marker spot.  Then, a 1/32” over-sized hole was drilled (9/32” drill bit).  This allows for tolerances since the drilled holes are eyeballed.


5. Using ¼” bolts, a lock washer, a regular washer on both sides, and a nut, the plate was attached behind the damaged area.  The two additional holes were then drilled out.  This ensured a perfect fit with the garage door.  The additional bolts, lock washers, and nuts were then added.


6. Now, the new Garage Door Bracket must be installed.  The Garage Door Arm was brought near the door and attached to the bracket to help locate where the Garage Door Bracket should be located.  The hole locations were marked with a magic marker, and the holes were drilled out.  The bracket was attached with ¼” fasteners, a lock washer on one side, and a nut.


7. Now, reattach the Garage Door Arm to the bracket, and it is finished!




Posted in Garage, Interior | Tagged: , | 13 Comments »