Galvanized steel cannot be painted with normal alkyd-based paints, which almost all spray paints are based on (check the ingredients on the back of the can.  If there is any “alkyd…” don’t even think about using it).  Rust-o-leum is nice enough to put on the back of their spray paint cans to not use their spray paint on galvanized steel.  However, beware, most spray paint companies do not include this warning.

First, what is galvanized steel?  It is steel that has a zinc coating to increase the steels corrosion (rust) resistance.  Most galvanized steel is created by a process called hot-dip galvanization and a common characteristic of these steels is their display of  Spangle.  Spangle is just a fancy word for visibly large crystalline grain size.  Small amounts of lead and other impurities will increase the size of the spangle and make it more noticeable.  You can see the spangle in the galvanized steel guard rail below.

Other galvanization processes used to apply zinc coatings usually do not produce noticeable spangle but instead have a dull gray finish.  These processes are briefly described below (from Grip-Rite fasteners website):
Electrogalvanized – zinc coating applied to steel with an electric charge – offers limited corrosion resistance – typically applied to roofing nails
Mechanically galvanized– zinc applied by tumbling with powdered zinc and glass beads – provides slightly better corrosion protection than electrogalvaized steels.
Hot galvanized – zinc is applied through a heat treatment.  Provides best corrosion protection behind Hot-dip galvanization.

How does the zinc coating work?  The zinc coating provides corrosion protection by actively reacting with the atmosphere to form a thin, tough, inert layer of zinc carbonate to prevent the steel from rusting.  The zinc coating will also provide cathodic protection if the underlying steel is ever exposed (such as by a scratch).   While the zinc will always provide cathodic protection, it takes time for the zinc carbonate to form, and must undergo three transformations.  First, the zinc rich coating will react with oxygen in the air to form zinc oxide.  Second, the zinc oxide will react with oxygen and moisture to form zinc hydroxides.  Third, the zinc hydroxides will react with oxygen, moisture, and carbon dioxide to form zinc carbonate.

Depending on the atmospheric conditions that the galvanized steel is subjected to, the time required for each of these layers to form will vary.  Pure zinc will be present from 0 to 48 hours after the galvanization process; zinc oxides/hydroxides will form anywhere in 24 hrs to 2 years, and zinc carbonate will form in 8 months to 2+ years.  Galvanized steel exposed to the elements will quickly form zinc carbonate (within 8 months) whereas galvanized steel located indoors and not exposed to the elements, can take more than 2 years to fully form the zinc carbonate layer.  As the transformation advances, the surface will start to appear duller, but, the spangle of the surface will not be lost.

This is important for surface preparation, especially if you decide to brush paint and the steel is exposed to the elements.  The zinc oxides and zinc hydroxides are not well adhered to the surface and can easily chip off.  Zinc carbonate bonds well to the underlying zinc and provides an excellent painting surface.  More in depth details on the surface preparation for painting can be found on the American Galvanizers Association (AGA) website (see links at the end).   Rubbing the galvanized surface with a damp, lint-free cloth is most likely all that is required for the average DIY’er.  Oils can be present on the surface from the manufacturing process, however, items for indoor/home use should not have these oils.  Mineral spirits, turpentine, or vinegar can be used especially to remove any surface oils, however, these will leave a residue.  Be sure to thoroughly wash the surface to remove this residue if you choose to clean with one of these.

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Why can’t galvanized steel be spray painted?  Alkyld-based spray paints will react with the zinc during any stage of the galvanized layer, in a process called saponification.  The alkyd-base interacts with the zinc to form a soap at the interface.  This will result in poor paint adhesion and paint peeling.  Cold galvanizing spray paints will adhere to galvanized steel because of their high zinc content, however, top-coats of regular spray paints still will not adhere, and the colors of cold-galvanizing spray paints are very limited.

Many brush-on paints exists to cover galvanized steel, but spray paints appear to be non-existent.  After much research, I finally found the solution.  Acryllic latex will adhere to galvanized steel with minimal surface preparation.  Therefore, the solution is Krylon’s H2O Latex spray paint.  It is an acrylic latex that will not chemically react with the galvanized surface.  [Krylon is one of the companies that does not include a warning against using their regular spray paints on galvanized steel.  Don’t be fooled.  All of their alkyd-based spray paints cannot be used on galvanized steel.  And, I don’t think they realize that they have the only spray paint that can be applied to galvanized steel.]  The spray paint costs about the same as any other spray paint and since it is a latex paint, it is more environmentally friendly.  It is difficult to find in stores.  I found it at Ace Hardware, but you can also find it from online retailers.  This spray paint is less viscous (more watery or runny) than the average spray paint, so use multiple light coats to prevent the paint from running and pooling on your project (I learned this the hard way).  DO NOT try to cover it in one coat.  The paint dries in about 15 minutes, however, the paint will not fully cure for about 7 days.  Also, do not use the Krylon H2O Latex primer.  It is alkyd-based (so technically, not a latex spray paint) and will not adhere, just like any other spray paint.

Hopefully, this information will help any future DIY’ers with their projects.  For more information, and more in depth explanation, visit the American Galvanizers Association’s (AGA) website at http://www.galvanizeit.org/ and check out their free publications on painting galvanized steel.

For general painting of galvanized steel, here is an excellent list of paints and their compatibility with galvanized steel.  This table comes from “Duplex Systems: Painting over Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel” which is available on the AGA’s website.

Type (paint base)…..Compatible…..Comments

Acrylics …….Sometimes……If the pH of the paint is high, problems may occur due to ammonia reacting with zinc
Aliphatic Polyurethanes…..Yes…..If used as a top coat for a polyamide epoxy primer, it is considered a superior duplex system
Alkyds…..No…..The alkaline zinc surface causes the alkyds to saponify, causing premature peeling
Asphalts…..No…..Petroleum base is usually not recommended for use on galvanized steel
Bituminous…..Yes…..Used for parts that are to be buried in soil
Chlorinated Rubbers…..Yes…..High VOC content has severely limited their availability
Coal Tar Epoxies…..Sometimes…..Rarely used, only if parts are to be buried in soil
Epoxies…..Sometimes…..If paint is specifically manufactured for use with galvanized steel
Epoxy-Polyamide Cured…..Yes…..Has superior adherence to galvanized steel
Latex-Acrylics…..Yes…..Has the added benefit of being environmentally friendly
Latex-Water-based…..Sometimes…..Consult paint manufacturer
Oil Base…..Sometimes…..Consult paint manufacturer
Portland Cement in Oil…..Yes…..Has superior adherence to galvanized steel
Silicones…..No…..Not for use directly over galvanized steel, can be beneficial in high temperature systems w/ base coat
Vinyls…..Yes…..Usually requires profiling, high VOC’s have severely limited their availability
Powder Coating…..Yes…..Low temperature curing powder coatings work exceptionally well over galvanized steel

Works Cited
American Galvanizers Association. (n.d.). Duplex Systems: Painting over Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel.Retrieved from American Galvanizers Association: http://www.galvanizeit.org 

American Galvanizers Association. (1999). Practical Guide for Preparing Hot Dip Galvanized Steel for Priming. Retrieved from American Galvanizers Association: http://www.galvanizeit.org 

Avallone, Eugene A., Theodore Baumeister III, eds. Marks’ Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers. 10th ed. New York: McGraw-Hill. Pgs. 6-93 & 6-110.

Grip-Rite. (2008, june). Grip-Rite Fasteners Catalog. Retrieved from http://www.grip-rite.com/fasteners.asp

Malone, J. F. (1992). Painting Hot Dip Galvanized Steel. Materials Performance , 31 (5), 39-42: http://www.galvanizeit.org

Peeling – From Galvanized Metal. (n.d.). Retrieved from Sherwin Williams: http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/problem/problems/peeling_galvanized/index.jsp

Painting Galvanized Steel. http://www.galvanizingasia.com/pdfs/page65-69.pdf

Why does Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer say not to use on galvanized metal? . (2008, May 8). Retrieved from Handy Man Club: http://www.handymanclub.com/Community/Forums.aspx?g=posts&t=38018

Time: 5 hours
Cost: $20 (depending on how many you are doing)
Difficulty: 3 out of 5
Tools required: Drill, screwdriver, jig saw, paint brush, tape measure

1. The cabinet doors were removed and lightly sanded to remove the some of the visible, sloppy brush strokes.

2. Hobby wood can be bought from Lowes and the Home Depot. They are pre-cut sizes, ranging from ¼” to ½” thick. I bought ¼” thick popular, in 3 in by 48 in sections. The wood was laid out on the cabinet door.

3. Tick marks were made at the edges of the molding and they were cut using a hand held jig saw.

4. On the back side of the board, screw holes were drilled, and countersunk. The screws will be used to keep the molding flush with the cabinet door and will prevent warping.

5. Using Liquid Nail, the border trim was glued on, the door flipped over, and a heavy load was applied (I used two 60 lb bag of concrete and my toolbox.) The screws are then added.

6. The doors were let to dry for about 30 minutes. Then, I check to make sure there were no noticeable gaps. Finally, the screws were covered using wood putty.

7. Now, the gaps between the moldings were filled with the wood putty and sanded flush to help soften the appearance of a seam.

8. The doors were painted, new hardware was added, and then the doors were re-installed. I used new satin-nickel door hinges, but they were the same style as the old brass hinges, so they fit the hinge install holes. You may have to do some searching to find where your hinges came from, but most likely, they are from Home Depot or Lowes.  My hinges came from Home Depot.

After all of that work, here is the before and after pictures:

To replace the Roman Tub faucet with the same base faucet from Moen, would have cost at least $270.  On top of that, the older Moen faucets are not typically compatible with the newer models, requiring the replacement of the valve kit.  This would involve so demo work on the tub, added substantially to the cost.  So, how did I get around this problem?  I did what every great American does.  I got it chromed!

Time: 3 hours
Cost: $120
Difficulty: 2 out of 5

To remove the faucet, I followed the installation instructions in reverse that I found on the Moen website.

1. The hot and cold water knobs were removed and the brass accent rings below them were unscrewed and removed.

2. The set-screw on the back side of the faucet was removed, and the faucet was carefully pulled up.

3. Now, send your components to a local chrome shop.  In Texas, and around the country, the EPA has cracked down on chrome companies due to the harmful chemicals used in the process.  Therefore, I found a place in Dallas that used the Cosmichrome water-based spray on chrome process.  It was performed at Elite Plating.  They just started using this process and chroming parts for the public, so, they haven’t perfected the process yet.  As with any spray on coating, dust is an issue…  But, for my purpose, the finished product looks great.  They charged $85 for the coating.  I received a quote from a real chrome plating company, Superior Chrome Plating, in Houston.  They said they could do it for around $85 to $100.

(the scratches are courtesy of Lowes, when I mistakenly asked for help to replace the set screw, and the guy took the faucet, and shoved it against a board of screws, to find the fit.)

4. Next, the drain plug was removed.  To do this, the plug was pushed down, and unscrewed.

5. To remove the base, slip joint pliers were placed between the cross, and a chisel was used to twist the pliers.  There is also a tool available at Lowe’s and Home Depot that will grip the inside wall of the base, allowing you to twist it out.  Carefully and slowly increase the amount of torque you are applying to the base.  If you twist to hard or fast, you risk damaging the base, drain pipe, or your tools.  Plumbers putty or a rubber gasket should be underneath, preventing any rotation.  But, it will unscrew slowly.

6. Now the overflow drain plate was removed by unscrewing the screws.

7. A new chrome drain plug and overflow plate was purchased.  Depending on the age of your tub, your drain plug will most likely be a different size then what is available from Lowes and Home Depot.  Our drain is 2 inches in diameter ( instead of 2.25”, I believe, available at Lowes and Home Depot) and so, I had to purchase it from a specialty plumbing store, for substantially more ($35 instead of the Lowes $10).

8. To reinstall the drain plug, a wad of plumbers putty (or rubber gasket) should be placed around the drain, and the plug screwed in the same way it was removed.  The new overflow plate was also installed.

9. Once the parts came back from getting chromed, they were installed, following Moen’s instructions.  New o-rings, grease, and “flow straightener” were purchased from Moen.com.

10. And, viola, a new chrome tub faucet for about $100.

Rating: 4/5

The adapter comes with a pull-chain and teflon tape.  When you want to turn the water back on, just pull on the chain or turn the knob.

Water is now at 95 degrees

I did find the installation a little frustrating.  The wrench flats on the adapter are very small, and while tighting, my wrench slipped a few times, scratching it.  Also, I had to wrap the threads with the teflon tape with 5 wraps (aka I installed and uninstalled the unit 5 times before it stopped leaking).  Otherwise, it is a great device, well worth the $30.

The proper way to fix a leaning post is to dig up the leaning post and replace it.  But, when multiple fence posts and tree roots are involved, fixing the problem may become more difficult.  The fence post can be dug up, but some of the tree roots could be damaged, jeopardizing its health.  So, an alternative is to pull the fence straight.  Most likely, if the leaning post is very stiff and leaning, it is caused by a root.  Otherwise, it could be caused by unstable soil.  Either way, straightening the post may take a very long time, and may not be permanent.

Time: initially 2 hours
Cost: $50
Difficulty: 2 out of 5
Tools required: Sledge hammer, side cutters
Material required:
1. Support Posts: 2” diameter pipe, 12” to 16” long (the bigger the diameter, and the longer the pipe, the better)
2. Turnbuckle
3. Wire: The wire was rated to 150lbs, and thin enough to be workable.  Since high loads will potentially be held by the wire, it is highly recommended that the wire is doubled up.

1. Two support posts were used because 1 most likely will be pulled toward the fence, instead of the other way around.  To position the two support posts, the height of the fence post was measured, and was 6 feet.   The support posts were put in at a 45° from the top of the fence post, two feet on either side of the post.

2. The Support posts were hammered into the ground at a slight angle.
Note: Be careful of any buried cables or gas lines and wear eye protection!

3. Wire line was wrapped around the top of the post

4. The wire line was then twisted by hand to double it up.

5. A turnbuckle was added.

6. The wire line was attached from the supports to the turnbuckle.  The wire was looped around one post, strung through the turnbuckle, and then looped around the other post.  Using a screw driver, the wire was twisted to tighten it up.

7. The turnbuckle was tightened until the post could not be pulled by hand toward the supports.  To tighten the center post, the tree next to the fence was temporarily used as an anchor by wrapping a rope around the tree and the top of the post.  In a tourniquet style, the rope was tightened.

10. After a month, two of the three posts were straightened.  The middle post still was not budging.  The anchors were being pulled toward the fence.  Therefore, the support posts holding up the third fence post were removed, and added to the second fence post.

11. After one year, the fence is finally straight, but, the wire supports are still needed to keep it straight.

Since this is a two-story house, estimates for repair were well over $500, and that was to just cover the hole up and paint it.  So, if you have good insurance, or you just hate the world, this may help you fix your problem.

Time: 14 hours
Cost: $100
(add another $50 to rent a ladder.)
Difficulty: 5 out of 5
Tools required: Drill, screwdriver, jig saw, hammer, paint brush, tape measure
Material Info: Masonite siding is a cheap siding used on many homes.  But, it can be hard to find.  Home Depot and Lowes do not carry it.  I found that 84 Lumber carries it, and sells it in 32 foot lengths.

Tips:
 - If you don’t have a 30 foot ladder lying around, you can rent them for about $50 a day from Home Depot or Lowes.
 - When climbing on the roof, follow the peaks or valleys.  If you can’t follow a peak or valley, try crab walking around.  This way, you can use your butt as a break.
 - Wear a long sleeve shirt, pants, and gloves!  The shingles will tear your hands up if you do not wear gloves.  If you start sliding, the clothing will provide better friction than your skin to help you stop.  Plus, it will minimize cuts from any slide.
 - Wear a good pair of shoes.  I found that my basketball shoes gripped the best.
 - Be aware of the amount of wear that you are causing to the shingles in the work area.

1. Make sure the squirrels are out, and cover up the holes.  The hole at the top was a ventilation hole, so, it was covered with chicken wire.  The hole in the side of the chimney was temporarily covered with a piece of wood, and caulk was placed around it.

2. The siding was removed to assess the damage to the wood.  The squirrels chewed through the plywood, and about halfway through the 2×4 support.  The other five 2×4 supports had scratch marks, but were not significantly damaged.

3. The wood was not in the best condition, therefore, all of the siding, on the damaged side, was removed and the rotten part of the plywood cut out.  The very top piece of siding was not removed because that would have required taking apart the whole top of the chimney, which, frankly, was too much work.

4. The damage to the 2×4 support was repaired by adding a 1×4 to the back side and using multiple screws to secure it in.

5. I was surprised to find a lot of hay in the chimney.  I am not sure if it is supposed to be there.  I can’t imagine animals bringing in that much material in less than 10 years.  It could be in there to absorb any moisture so that it does not get into the house.  So, I removed about half of it, to get rid of the fur and fecal matter.

6. A 1×1 piece of wood was then screwed into the side of the 2×4 support that ran up the middle of the side.

7. A piece of plywood was cut to fit the cut-out using a jigsaw and screwed in.  An approximate rectangle was first cut.  Then, back on the roof, different areas were cut to make a good fit.  The gap was sealed using liquid nails.

8. The new pieces of Masonite Siding were then cut.  The old pieces were used as templates, which reduced the amount of measuring.  The new siding was then painted using 2 coats of exterior paint.

9. The far corner trim was assembled before I went back on the roof, to help with installation.

10. The siding was then nailed into place along the side where the trim will cover it.  The siding is supposed to be installed from the bottom up, but, since I did not remove the top piece of siding, I had to install it from the top down.

[Also, starting from the bottom would have been very difficult due to the awkwardness of working on a second story roof, 5 feet from the edge.]

11. The trim was then added.

12. Every single crack/gap/void on the whole chimney was then sealed with an external caulk.  A fresh coat of paint was added, making the chimney look good as new!

A small section of my fence was leaning, to a point where I could no longer open or close the gate.  After closely looking at the fence, I discovered that the base of the post had rusted away, and was only being held up by a rusted quarter of an inch of material.  Since the gate closed on this post, I didn’t want to move the post.  So, I dug up the post and replaced it.

Time: 6 hours
Cost: $35
(add another $35 if you do not have a Slate bar, Lowes has these, make sure to get one with a point on one end and a flat other end)
Difficulty: 3 out of 5
Tools required: Screwdrivers, Socket Wrench, Slate bar, Hoe, mixing tub

General Tip:
Fence posts should be placed 2 to 3 feet in the ground.  Corner posts should be at least 3 feet deep.

1. Since this small section of the fence had a hose reel attached to it, the hose reel was removed.  No screws had to be removed.  Most hose reels can be lifted up and then pulled off of the screws, similar to how picture frames are hung.

2. A support was placed under the fence a couple feet away from the broken post.  A scrap piece of granite and an old outdoor flower pot holder was used.  This kept the fence at the correct height.  A temporary post was installed next.  This prevents the fence from leaning.  An old Antenna pole and string was used.  The temporary support post was hammered 2 feet in the ground.

[This was a short section of fence, which could have easily been removed.  However, I did not want to leave an obvious hole in the fence.  Also, I wanted the fence to be inline.  In other words, if the whole fence leaned a little, I wanted the new post to lean a little.]

3. The rusted fence post was removed.  This was very easy, requiring one gentle swing of the sledge hammer.  Next, the concrete had to be taken out.

4. Using the Slate bar, the concrete around the post was broken up.  Use the pointed end of the Slate bar to hit the concrete.  The concrete should break up in chunks.  Eye protection was critical here, as small fragments of concrete were flying everywhere.

5. The remaining post stub was stabbed with the Slate bar.  Using a brick for leverage, I stood one the other end of the Slate bar, and the stub and most of the remaining concrete came right out.

6. The hole was cleaned out, removing all of the remaining small clumps of concrete and dirt.  This post hole was about 2 feet deep once everything was cleaned out.  So, the hole was deepened a few more inches and widened.

7. Using the old fence post clips, the new post was attached to the fence, so that it hung in the hole, about an inch from the bottom of the hole.

8. Concrete was mixed in a tub two bags at a time.  This is a very cheap way to mix concrete if you lack a wheel barrow.  These tubs can be found at the Home Depot and Lowes.  The concrete was mixed using a hoe, which was easier than using a shovel, since the tub is on the ground.

9. The concrete was poured into the hole, and a downward slope from the post to the ground was made, to keep water from gathering around the base.  Concrete was also placed in the post.  By knocking on the post and listening to the different sounds, the level was made slightly higher than the post base. This maybe unnecessary, but if you are interested, here is my reasoning:

The highest stressed location in this fence post (this is the post where the gate closes) is at the base where the post meets the concrete.  Corrosion (rusting) will occur faster at higher stressed areas, so, by keeping water away from the stressed area (filling the lower area of the post), rusting of that area should be delayed.

10. Let the concrete cure for the recommended time while keeping the temporary supports on the fence.  Any stress on the post should be minimized to ensure proper concrete curing.  Once the concrete has cured, remove the temporary supports.  A sledge hammer was required to knock the Antenna pole back and forth to loosen it enough to pull it out.

My Garage Door Bracket, which connects the Garage door arm to the Garage door ripped out of the garage door. 

I got a quote from a Garage Door repair company, and they said I would have to replace the whole door.  I didn’t have more time to wait for a second opinion, so I decided to fix the problem myself. 

Time: 4 hours
Cost: $15
(add another $20 if you do not have Titanium Drill bits or a Hack saw)
Difficulty: 3 out of 5

1. The maximum width plate that could fit behind the damaged area was measured, which was just shy of 2 inches.  There is a lip that would prevent any overhang of the plate.  A 2” wide, 1/8” thick, steel plate was used because Home Depot and Lowes did not have any Aluminum plate.  The plate was gently “convinced” to fit behind the damaged area.

2. The length of the steel plate required to reinforce the damaged area was 14 inches.  The plate ran from the cross support above the damage to the hinge below the damage. (Note: If you just choose to cover just the damaged area, there will be very high stresses at the ends of the plate that will probably cause the new repair to fail.  If you try this repair, your length may vary).

The picture below shows where I put my ¼” bolts.  The holes circled in red were unused existing holes that I enlarged.  The yellow ones are existing screw locations.  The blue ones are holes that I added.

4. Once the general hole pattern was decided, the plate is placed behind the damaged area.  Using a magic marker, chosen fastener holes were completely filled in.  The plate was removed, and the holes were drilled.  To drill through the steel, Titanium drill bits were used.  A 1/8” pilot hole was first drilled at approximately the center of the magic marker spot.  Then, a 1/32” over-sized hole was drilled (9/32” drill bit).  This allows for tolerances since the drilled holes are eyeballed.

5. Using ¼” bolts, a lock washer, a regular washer on both sides, and a nut, the plate was attached behind the damaged area.  The two additional holes were then drilled out.  This ensured a perfect fit with the garage door.  The additional bolts, lock washers, and nuts were then added.

6. Now, the new Garage Door Bracket must be installed.  The Garage Door Arm was brought near the door and attached to the bracket to help locate where the Garage Door Bracket should be located.  The hole locations were marked with a magic marker, and the holes were drilled out.  The bracket was attached with ¼” fasteners, a lock washer on one side, and a nut.

7. Now, reattach the Garage Door Arm to the bracket, and it is finished!